inaccessible pinnacle and sgurr mhic coinnich

The Inaccessible Pinnacle is the bottleneck, the dreaded exposed rock climb, the crux for anyone intent on doing the round of the Munros. Listening to the 'lucky' ones who have safely ticked it off is no help. Nor is looking at photographs and listening to tall tales. Yes, it is exposed and yes you need a rope to get off, trust me jumping is not an option. You will not be able to 'dreep' of it either. If you thought the Black Cuillin was a narrow acrophobic inducing ridge, well the narrow and exposed section that is the east ridge of the Inaccessible Pinnacle takes top billing. At one part you can straddle the crest with one leg hanging over a vertical section and the other over an overhang. The views down into Loch Coruisk on one side and over to the Minch on the other side are spectacular. You need to look. But it is not all bad news. I think.

inaccessible pinnacle is small flake cutting ridge just right of centre (looks like a chimney) and sgurr mhic coinnich is slightly lower and just left of centre of picture, see obvious verticle face to left of knobbly summit - slightly higher and to it's left is sgurr alasdair, highest point on cuillin ridge

Hundreds of nervous non climbers manage it every year. It is classed as a rock climb, rated moderate, so not too difficult. If the actual 'rib' for that is what it is, was laid out in the local park you would go up it with your hands in your pockets. So it is not the actual hands on bit that brings the difficulty, it is one's imagination. Best to leave that in your rucksack.

My first trip up its east ridge, a few years ago now, was on a gloriously sunny July day. My companion Tom and I set out early from the memorial hut and wandered up the Coire Lagan path. It is a nice approach. Not far up the track is Eas Mor waterfall at the back of a lovely wee gorge area on Allt Coire na Banachdich. Take your camera. As you ascend further up the track the views back over to Eigg and other islands are worth the effort so far. After a while you scramble over the slabby rim of Coire Lagan and come across the lovely lochan, perfect spot for a snack. For those of you with no wish to scale the peaks, please believe me, the effort required to get to this spot will be well rewarded. It is spectacular, no really, spectacular. High on one side is the Cioch with the 'nose' prominent. Did you see the film, 'The Highlander' and do remember the swordfighting scene with Sean Connery way out on that airy, fearsome overhanging ledge. That is the nose you are looking up at. You are surrounded on three sides with fierce beetling black cliffs and ridges. On the fourth side you are on a viewing platform with scenes you could not believe. It is also a sun trap.

short west face of inaccessible pinnacle

Tom and I cannot wait about for long, much to do. We decide not to take the book route which will lead us to the back left hand side of Coire Lagan and up a steep scree scramble. We simply strike out directly up the south flank of Sgurr Dearg. It was a spur of the moment decision, why do I do that? A steep gulley to start then a mixture of slabby ground and large blocks, altogether steep and interesting. We get onto the Sgurr Dearg ridge, head to our right and soon we are below the short west face of the Pinnacle. A couple of climbers are rappelling from the top. After another snack break we pick our way down the south side of the 'fin' to reach the route up that side onto the long east ridge. Tom sets out in front and we are soon on the ridge proper. It is steep, narrow and exposed. It is not however technically difficult and we are soon well up. Then I am aware that Tom has stopped. At first I assume he is taking in the view so I relax and have a look about. It is stupendous, wonderful. A couple of minutes pass and I begin to wonder what Tom is doing. I ask and he tells me he is gripped and cannot move. I try to encourage him to make the next move, to no avail. After a couple of minutes I decide I had better do something. I have no intention of going back and there is no point in taking the rope out of my rucksack, I would have to get beyond him to do something with it. I am going to have to get past him anyway. Decision taken, at the narrowest most awkward part of the whole ridge I tell Tom I am going to climb over him. I urge him to stay absolutely still, do not move. Then I simply clamber over him. Interesting. Once in front I tell him not to look anywhere other than my boots and just watch exactly where I step, then follow. That works and soon we are atop the Inaccessible Pinnacle, or Inaccessible Peak, to give it the title Munro gave it. After a few minutes soaking up the sun and the view it is out with the rope and down the eighty foot west face. So there it is. It was not as hard as I had feared but really exhilarating.

sgurr mhic coinnich directly over an stac in foreground

sgurr mhic coinnich

We have not finished yet and head off down by An Stac to Sgurr Mhic Coinnich. We look at the buttress we have to ascend and from a distance it looks fearsome. How are we getting up there? As we near the route becomes obvious and we soon scramble up the north west corner onto the summit ridge. It is shattered, long and airy. Makes the Aonach Eagach look like a stroll. It is not technically difficult but again lots of exposure and great sport. Wonderful, not the place for those unsure of airy stances. At the summit there is a plaque to Lewis McDonald, to whom the mountain is named. We sit about again, not doing much, just taking in the view. This summit has to be one of my favourite places in all the earth. I will return. (And I do, more than once)

We descend by the route we ascended then down scree slopes into Coire Lagan, then down the track and back to the car.

A refreshing pint put the lid on a brilliant day on one of the best mountaineering areas anywhere.